Tales of Kashmir

How a wetland became a forty-year emergency, and how a capital learned to live inside the smell of its own neglect. There is a version of Srinagar that exists only in postcards and reels — shikaras gliding through lotus-flecked water, snow-capped peak…

In Srinagar, one name carries two fates — a Prime Minister's, and a sweeper's. This is the story of a caste-like hierarchy that Kashmir has often insisted it doesn't have. Ask many Kashmiris whether their society has caste, and the answer …

A nomadic woman near Water Works Road. A girl with a cognitive disability in Kunzer. A twelve-year-old in Galwanpora. A woman filmed in a park in Jalsheeri. The honest answer to this question is not a simple yes or no, and it cannot be found in one st…

We vote. We elect. We celebrate democracy. But behind every elected government, a quieter and more enduring structure of power continues to operate — less visible, more complex, and largely untouched by elections. Every few years, the ritu…