Soch Kral: A Potter's Questions to the Divine

Some poets survive in libraries. Soch Kral survived in voices. For generations, his verses travelled through Kashmir the way water moves through a valley — not along a single channel, but through gatherings, disciples, singers, and the memory of ordin…

Srinagar's Waste Crisis: Forty Years of Neglect

How a wetland became a forty-year emergency, and how a capital learned to live inside the smell of its own neglect. There is a version of Srinagar that exists only in postcards and reels — shikaras gliding through lotus-flecked water, snow-capped peak…

Shafi Shauq: The Keeper of the Spoken Word

On the poet from Kaprin who chose the language of the orchard and the fireside over the language of institutional prestige, and spent a lifetime insisting it was never as powerless as the world assumed. In the winter of a village called Kaprin, in a c…

Same Blood, Different Sheikhs: Kashmir's Hidden Caste

In Srinagar, one name carries two fates — a Prime Minister's, and a sweeper's. This is the story of a caste-like hierarchy that Kashmir has often insisted it doesn't have. Ask many Kashmiris whether their society has caste, and the answer …

How Safe Is a Woman in Kashmir?

A nomadic woman near Water Works Road. A girl with a cognitive disability in Kunzer. A twelve-year-old in Galwanpora. A woman filmed in a park in Jalsheeri. The honest answer to this question is not a simple yes or no, and it cannot be found in one st…

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